Edging pieces, anchor stakes & trench backfill for any border
Strips are fixed at 10 ft. Each interlocking joint overlaps into the next strip, reducing effective coverage per strip.
Typically equal to the timber's width — a 4x4 lap corner consumes about 8″ total across the joint.
Straight runs hold their line with standard 3–4 ft anchor spacing.
Auto-set by border shape above — adjust manually for mixed straight/curved runs.
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Edging Pieces Needed
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Trench Backfill Estimate
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Estimates are approximate. Joint/overlap loss, anchor spacing, and soil conditions vary by manufacturer and site. Confirm quantities with your supplier before ordering.
Edging math changes based on the material you're buying and how many curves your border has, so those come first.
Picking the wrong edging type or spacing your stakes wrong is the fastest way to end up redoing a border within a year. Here's what actually holds up:
For anchoring: straight runs hold fine with a stake every 3–4 feet. Curved or serpentine borders need a stake every 1.5–2 feet, since each one fights more sideways force to hold the bend. Soft or sandy soil calls for 20–30% more stakes than firm ground, regardless of shape.
Curved and irregular borders typically need about 10% more material than straight runs, to cover the extra cutting and joint loss. Complex slopes or terraces can run closer to 15%.
Every 3–4 feet on straight sections, and every 1.5–2 feet on curves. Loose or sandy soil needs even tighter spacing to hold securely.
The terms are mostly used interchangeably in landscaping both refer to the material that separates a garden bed, path, or lawn area from the surrounding space.
Most edging types need a shallow trench, usually 4–5 inches wide and deep, both to seat the material and to backfill around it for stability.
Concrete or paver block edging generally lasts the longest with the least maintenance, followed by aluminum or steel. Flexible plastic is the least durable but the easiest and cheapest to replace.